C O N T E N T S
THE ITALIAN EXPEDITION TO THE KARAKORUM. A. Desio
ACONCAGUA, FACE SUD. R. Ferlet and G. Poulet
THE PETIT DRU BY THE WEST FACE. Ron Moseley
CLIMBS IN ALASKA, 1954. Fred Beckey
THE TECHNIQUE OF ARTIFICIAL CLIMBING. E. A. Wrangham
TO THE MONK'S HEAD ON RAKAPOSHI. Roger Chorley
THE CREAGH DHU HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1953. Hamish MacInnes
PEAKS OF THE SISSU NALA BASIN, LAHUL HIMALAYA. N. Wollaston
INVITATION TO THE ANDES. John C. Oberlin
FURTHER NOTES ON THE ANDES. E. Echevarria
TOWARDS KANGCHENJUNGA. Douglas Side
KILIMANJARO. D. L. Busk
FURTHER NOTES ON THE RUWENZORI: A POSTSCRIPT. D. L. Busk
MOUNT RUAPEHU, NEW ZEALAND. N. E. Odell
TWO CAUCASIAN FIRST ASCENTS. D. W. Freshfleld
SOME NOTES ON A. F. MUMMERY. T. S. Blakeney
LHO LA. N. E. Odell
HUMAN NATURE IN THE VALAIS. Sir Arnold Lunn
NEW ZEALAND NOTES. David Hall
ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY. T. S. Blakeney
IN MEMORIAM: A. BASSET, A. L. BILL, M. de LUSY, F. FLETCHER,
W. W. FOSTER, H. MACROBERT, M. K. MAUTHNER, E. F. NORTON,
F. B. STEAD, A.E. STORR, L.WIBRATTE
3
17
25
31
37
48
58
62
69
79
83
96
105
108
113
118
132
135
143
145
149
EXPEDITIONS
165;
ALPINE NOTES
169;
REVIEWS
179 ;
EDITORIAL NOTE
204
Kangchenjunga Climbed
The Barun Expedition, 1954
Cho Oyu, 1954
Round about Dhaulagiri
Three Months in Upper Garhwal and Adjacent Tibet
Mount Kenya, 1939-1952
Aspects of Winter Mountaineering in the Norwegian Arctic
Invitation to the Andes, Part II
Le Métier de Guide
Himalayan Apery
The First Attempt on the Porta da Roseg
The Caucasus in 1874 (i)
The Caucasus in 1874 (ii)
The Southern Alps from End to End
Expeditions
Alpine Notes
Andean Notes, 1953-4
New Zealand Notes, 1954-5
Celebration of the Centenary of the First Ascent of Monte Rosa
G. G. Band
George Lowe
H. Tichy
J. O. M. Roberts
Gurdial Singh
J. W. Howard
N. G. Negri
Godfrey Francis
Gaston Rebuffat
H. W. TiIman
D. W. FreshfieId
A. W. Moore
N. E. Odell
T. Crombie
David Hall
207
227
239
248
257
270
276
280
293
296
302
305
336
365
367
376
387
391
395
IN MEMORIAM: A. H. Firmin, C. F. Fothergill, A. P. Harper,
R. Kay, C. H. Pasteur, F. Schjelderup, P. C. Visser
397
Reviews
416 ;
Correspondence
437 ;
Proceedings of the Alpine Club, 1954-5
441