Contents
WEST NEPAL
The First Ascent of Gave Ding
Mukot Peak
Mick Fowler
Tom Richardson
3
13
PAKISTAN
The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
Fever Pitch
Khane Valley, Karakoram
Simone Moro
Andy Houseman
Walter Polidori
23
31
41
ALASKA
Degrees of Faith
The Trouble with Happiness
Will Sim
Ben Silvestre
55
64
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Trying Tajikistan
Hidden Zanskar
Cordillera Santa Vera Cruz, Bolivia
George Cave
Derek Buckle
Evelio Echevarría
73
82
90
GREENLAND
Tilman Must Never Die
A Polar Bear had Wandered by Unseen
Rev Bob Shepton
Jim Gregson
101
110
LETTERS FROM EVEREST
‘Write me a little letter'
8 June 1933
Abbie Garrington
Jack Longland
123
135
ART & LITERATURE
The Mountain World of Ken Wilson
Some Thoughts on Mountain Photography
Step in Stone
John Porter
John Cleare
Terry Gifford
149
162
174
SCIENCE & NATURE
Stanhope Speer: Early Alpinist and Pioneer in Mountain Medicine
The Exploration Tribe
The Shrinking Glacier Conundrum
James S Milledge
Dr Nathan Smith
Euan Mearns & Alex Milne
181
190
195
THE COMPETITIVE SPIRIT
Seconds Out
Victor Saunders
211
HISTORY
The Priest Who Disappeared
Hadow’s Sole
Chitral 1958
One Hundred Years Ago
Kim Sommerschield
Marc König
Ted Norrish
C A Russell
235
243
254
265
AREA NOTES
Alps & Dolomites 2015
Scottish Winter 2015-16
Nepal
Peru 2013-14
Argentina & Chile
Mount Everest Foundation Reports
Lindsay Griffin
Simon Richardson
Ian Wall
Antonio ‘Sevi’ Gómez Bohórquez
Marcelo Scanu
Summarised by Glyn Hughes
271
280
286
291
311
316
REVIEWS
329
IN MEMORIAM
ALPINE CLUB NOTES
Contributors
Index
364
415
428
434