Contents
HIGH ASIA
Far From The Madding Crowd
Along The Corridor and Up The Stairs
A Peak and Three Passes in Himachal
The Threat
Back From The Dead
Reflecting on Gasherbrum II
Spoils of War
Mick Fowler
Pat Deavoll
Martin Moran
Bruce Normand
Dave Wynne-Jones
Simone Moro
Freddie Wilkinson
3
16
27
40
52
59
63
COMMENT
Is Mountaineering a Sport?
The Tyranny of History
Phil Bartlett
Andrew Bisharat
77
88
SURVEYS
Exploring The Eastern Caucasus
Zemu Gap From The South
New Routes and a Mystery in West Sikkim
Unclimbed Peaks in Sichuan – 2012
Graham Dudley & Simon Richardson
Anindya Mukherjee
Roger Payne
Tamotsu Nakamura
99
114
124
132
ALPS & NORWAY
‘A Very Tempting Prize Indeed’
Ecstasy
Fjord Fandango
Simon Richardson
Andy Cave
David Pickford
147
158
163
AC EXPEDITION – Antarctica
Derek Buckle & Phil Wickens
179
SCIENCE
The Silent Killer
The Ngozumpa Glacial Lake Imaging Project
On The Road to a Greener Alps
Paul Ramsden
Ulyana Horodyskyj
Stephen Goodwin
195
203
209
ARTS
In Search of Nirvana
‘Living at Our Full Compass’
Kindred Spirits
John Fairley
Penny Bradshaw
Elizabeth Raikes
223
229
238
HISTORY
L’affaire Frêney
Unknown AC First in Picos
One Hundred Years Ago
Eric Vola
Elisa Villa, Alfredo Íñiguez & Jesús Longo
C A Russell
247
258
266
AREA NOTES
Compiled and Edited by Paul Knott
270
The Alps 2011
Scottish Winter 2010-11
Afghanistan 2011
Pakistan 2011
India 2011
Nepal 2011
China & Tibet 2011
Bolivia 2009-2011
Argentine Andes 2009-2010
New Zealand 2010-2011
Lindsay Griffin
Simon Richardson
Lindsay Griffin
Dick Isherwood
Harish Kapadia
Dick Isherwood
John Town
Erik Monasterio
Marcelo Scanu
Kester Brown
271
280
287
289
293
307
311
314
317
324
REVIEWS
341
IN MEMORIAM
Officers and Committee for 2012
ALPINE CLUB NOTES
New Honorary Members
Alpine Club Climbing Fund
Alpine Club Library Annual Report 2011
Letter to The Editor
Contributors
Index
395
428
429
429
429
431
432
434
440
Mount Everest Foundation Expedition Reports
Summarised by Bill Ruthven
329