Contents

Valedictory Address                                                  Chris Bonington           1

EXPEDITIONS

Climbing in NE Nepal

   on Tang Kongma and Drohmo                                        Doug Scott         13

Kangchenjunga: The First Female Ascent                Ginette Harrison         18

Courting the Great White Snow God                         Chris Bonington         23

Through the Eastern Nyenchen Tanglha                      Charles Clarke         29

Another Pilgrim for Nanga Parbat                                    Alan Hinkes         34

The Dream Trail: Across the Himalaya                          Vineeta Muni         39

Mountaineering and War

   on the Siachen Glacier                                             Harish Kapadia         51

A HIMALAYAN BESTIARY

No Yeti - official

   (Thus spake Reinhold Messner)                                Audrey Salkeld         69

The Elusive Snowman                                                     John Jackson         71


ARCTIC DREAMS

Kangerdlugssuaq                                                               Phil Bartlett         91

Nocturnes                                                                          Jim Gregson         97

East of the Weasel                                                       David Williams         103

AFRICAN SKIES

The Changing Face of South Africa                        Stephen Venables         111

Up Above the World                                                       Dennis Gray         120

THE GREAT GAME

Exploratory Mountaineering in the                               David Keaton

   Muzkol East Pamir                                                                                    127

Climbing and Kalashnikovs                                         Chris Bedford,

                                                                                        Derek Buckle

                                                                                         & Gary Hill         136

ISSUES

The Morality of Risk                                                        Ed Douglas         149

Traditional Climbing Values: Addenda                            Ken Wilson         157

CONTROVERSIES

The Passage of the Sesiajoch

   from Zermatt to Alagna                                          Riccardo Cerri          163

Other Annapurnas                                                            Sue Harper          170

HISTORIES

The Climb of the Ancient Mariner                                 Bill Whelen          177

John Ruskin, Eugene Viollet-Ie-Duc

   and the Alps                                                         Cynthia Gamble          185

Exploration and Mapping SE of Everest

   in 1954 and 1955                                                     Michael Ward         197

One Hundred Years Ago                                                  CA Russell         202

AREA NOTES                                  Edited by Jose Luis Bermudez         210

Contributions from:

Yossi Brain, Antonella Cicogna, Derek Fordham, Lindsay Griffin, David Hamilton,

Paul Horton, Tony Howard, Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott, Bill O'Connor, Simon

Richardson.

Mount Everest Foundation:

Expedition Reports 1997                       Summarised by Bill Ruthven        276

Book Reviews                              Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman        289

In Memoriam                               Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman        323

Alpine Club Notes                                                                                      347

Contributors                                                                                                360

Index                                                                                                           365

Notes for Contributors                                                                                372